Being embraced by the San Juan
Mountains was such an amazing and comforting feeling! Naturally the Trail went
up and as it did the views kept improving. My head was on a swivel and the
camera constantly in my hand as views spread out in every direction. Another
bikepacker caught up and together we cycled and pushed our bikes in the high alpine
above Lake San Cristobal and Lake City. Last night’s freezing temps have dusted
the surrounding peaks with fresh fall snow. I wished to be closer to water, as
I had carelessly failed to fill up my water bottles and the first water source
was eight miles distant. Yet the spectacular scenery easily helped me forget my
thirst. I stopped for lunch at the first
water and then continued cycling uphill. A few miles more and I paused for a
picture at the Colorado Trail’s highest point at an elevation of 13,271 feet. My
reward was a short steep descent into another alpine mountain valley.
Although I have cycled less than
twenty miles, the scenery and challenging terrain made for slow progress, so as
dusk deepened I climbed out of one valley and into another. Camp was made where
darkness found me, tonight it was bivouacked in a cluster of willows sheltered
from the wind. My food supply was low, so the choice of dinner was based upon
what food was left in my bags. In the morning the wind had strengthened into a
gale. Trying to cycle above 12,000 feet with 30-40 mile per hour gusts was
frustrating. I was forced to push my bike most of the way and struggled to
catch my breath. Finally, I reached Stony Pass and began the spectacular descent
through historic mining ruins into Silverton. In town I ate a whole twelve-inch
pizza at Avalanche Café, attempting to recover from four days of accumulated calorie
deficit. I had planned to rest up in town for the evening, but winter weather
is forecasted two days hence, so I decide to past onwards. So, after stocking up
on lots of heavy groceries at the small store I began the climb up to Molas
Pass along Highway 550. After days of peaceful solitude along the Trail the traffic
along the asphalt was unsettling. I was happy to return to the single-track above
Molas Pass. In camp I saw the alpine glow to the East and the dim of Durango to
the South.
In the morning the wind abated, and
I enjoyed spectacular single-track riding that has obviously been ridden my
many mountain bikes. To try and describe the scenery that I cycled past today would
be an act of futility; it is best experienced. Twelve miles into Segment 27, I
made camp at a scenic overlook surrounded by mountains. For my last night on
the Trail I enjoyed the comforting glow of a campfire before climbing the warmth
of my sleeping bag. The next morning the sun met me early over the mountain peaks
and I cycled onwards. A few miles further and I was faced with the challenge of
Indian Ridge, a series of false summits, narrow ridges and talus slopes.
Although short it was by far the most challenging section of trail! I was
relieved to descend to Taylor Lake and then after a short climb to Kennebec
Pass begin the long-awaited for six-thousand-foot descent into Durango. I cruised downwards and then began the last thousand-foot
climb of the Trail. With relief I finished the climb and ate the last of my
food. The cool alpine forests gave way to Gamble Oak and Ponderosa Pines and
the closer I got the Trail’s end the more excited and relieved I became.
Twenty-one days after leaving Denver I pedaled home
into Durango. It has been a fulfilment of a dream and what an adventure at it
has been. Yet my stomach required food, so I rode to Home Slice Pizza where I
ate a tasty sixteen-inch pizza in one sitting. I was full and satisfied.
